Basso & Brooke Press Release A/W 09

The ever eclectic interests of Basso & Brooke, turn this season to the Baroque and Rococo movements in Europe.

Both the Baroque and Rococo styles shared a taste for complex forms and intricate patterns, but with different intentions. Underlying the manifestations of Baroque was the desire to evoke emotional states by appealing to the senses, often in dramatic ways; and was adopted by the aristocracy as a means of impressing visitors and expressing power and control.  The purposes of Rococo were lighter and more playful. Developing first in the decorative arts and interior design as a result of changes to artistic fashion brought about, initially by Louis XIV, the ideal of Rococo was rooted in prettiness rather than in a concept of classic beauty, and to indulge the senses with its delicate and excessive embellishment.

The investigation into these areas of interest has been twofold. Prints, this season, have, at first glance drawn literally from the visual excesses of these eras of design. On closer inspection however, there has also been an examination of the theories and reasoning behind image making methods with a desire to reinterpret and update through the use of modern technology. One example is a series of prints entitled “Vitreaux”, which came about by looking at the effect of cast light through stained glass and then stylizing these natural forms in a similar manner to the Baroque practice of stylizing forms in nature. The effect of light on different surfaces continues as a theme as in a print which digitally recreates the optical effect of Moire fabric, a favourite choice of the period, using liquid metal as a reference.

The glint of gold trellises and armoured scales, ormolu furnishings, pearls, laurel leaves, antique lace and plush furs are rendered in two dimensions, and built up in patterns which, at times, reference the fragile porcelains of Sevres and Limoges and even the intricate craftsmanship of Faberge, further adding to the illusion of Rococo inspired opulence and layered excess. However, as the designers point out illusion is all it is. As the original pioneers of digital print in fashion, Basso & Brooke are keen to constantly re-examine their chosen medium and to expand and update the language of print with each collection, yet there is also the intent to actualize innovative ideas and to temper ‘fantasy’ with the reality of producing a modern, ready to wear collection. The ‘flattening’ of layers of opulent fabric and embellishment to a printed surface is a desire to offer the visual fantasy of grandeur and frivolous excess, as modern, exciting and desirable womenswear.

Cutting is young and sleek. Sharp, classic tailoring complements the exuberant prints. Detailing has been arrived at by a process of distillation, the idea being to take from historical reference and to modernise, make simpler and more functional while still retaining traces of the original visual qualities. Outfits are simplified by merging garments together and accessories, such as belts are at times amalgamated, becoming an integral part of the cutting, both for shaping and decorative value. Pleats are used with precision, to shape or as pure decoration and also as a device to conceal or reveal areas of print. Lighter weight fabrics have been chosen ranging from custom designed silk jacquards and silk georgette to wool/silk faille, silk/viscose and duchesse satin.

Master milliner Stephen Jones, further embellishes the silhouette with light-hearted, 2D cutouts of powdered wigs and flattened graphic bows.

Beauty by L’Oreal Paris is light, delicate and young, inspired by the flushed porcelain complexions of Fragonard’s paintings. Hair is slightly ruffled as if disturbed by a rush of wind, and together with the make up suggests the exhilaration of “The Swing”.

Ends

Press release by Alexis Panayiotou

CREDITS

Production
My Beautiful City

Styling
Chloe Beeney

Casting
Shelley Durkan

Hats
Stephen Jones Millinery for B&B

Soundtrack Producer
Fernando Britto

Make –up
James Kaliardos for L’Oréal Paris

Hair
Alain Pichon for L’Oréal Paris

Shoes
Raouda Assaf for Basso & Brooke

Pearl Jewellery & Bracelets
Disaya for Basso & Brooke

Silk Necklaces
Pebble London

PR
Blow